Indian restaurants in Paris
So you thought that streets of buzzing Indian restaurants were limited to British and Asian shores? Paris is sadly known for having little to no good places to go for a proper naan, despite a large Indian population. Now I am no specialist, but I do love a chicken korma. And so it was a wonderful surprise to literally fall into Paris’ secret passageway of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi restaurants, while sheltering from a torrential Sunday downpour.
Through a pedestrian archway, I fall into Little India. The entire corridor is crammed full of restaurants offering menus for as little as 9 euros for two courses. Waiters stand outside shouting their specialities and deals of the moment “c’est le meilleur ici, da best!” How did this happen? How did these tiny corridors crossing two relatively unknown roads in Paris suddenly become a porthole to Indian restaurant mecca?
The Passage de Brady crosses the Rue Faubourg Saint Denis and the Boulevard de Strasbourg, between two “portes” (Porte Saint Martin and Porte Saint Denis) built in 1962 replacing medieval arches built in the 14th century. Paris’ passages are known for their charm, surprising tourists and locals alike. I’ve written before about the wonder of the passageways in the 2nd/9th, stunning for their antiquity and architectural beauty. But this is a continent away. This is loud, colourful, and smells delicious. I love moments like these, the kind that only a city like Paris can give. She never stops surprising me.
I think I made two trips up and down the passageways before finally deciding on one. As usual, my technique is to see where the regulars go (look for people who are not looking- those who head straight in with a familiar air about them). So I lurked around for a bit, and finally opted for one of the very last, a tiny place opposite a fancy dress shop. Huge portions, great flavours, and pichets of wine at 5 euros each make for a happy me… 🙂
Confession: It’s not the one in the photo. Being so hungry after all my lurking, I completely forgot to get the camera out. Still, for a point of reference, it’s the one after this one…see arrow.
Be curious, and stay dry